Thursday, 20 January 2011

Pendrell homage - FBA

At this point, I tissue fitted the pattern, as I expected it's too small and needs a full bust adjustment

Right, I now needed to do a full bust adjustment, however before I move the princess seam, Fit for real people says you should adjust the vertical proportions of the pattern first. This is basically due to the problem that if you have larger boobs, they sit lower and use more of the length of the fabric to go round, so the fullest part of the bust area will be too high on the pattern. I need to move this down, so that the curve is in the right place. 

After dismantling the the pattern again, where you can see the additional width and length marks. The next thing is to draw a box round the full bust area, just above the top notch and below the bottom one. 

Then you cut the square out. Mark the corrected bust fullness height on the other pieces or a rough sheet underneath the hole.
Then put the square back, and slide it down until the original bust apex from the pattern is over the new apex line.  Do not correct the horizontal error at this stage, just slide down (or up) as needed. 

Then fill in the gaps with more paper and true up the edges so that the curves are smooth. 

According to Fit for real people, you shouldn't just join between the edges of the original pieces for this, you should continue the lien from one side and curve to miss the other edge. As far as I can gather, if you are lowering the bust you draw from the edge that makes the piece smaller (ie you will be cutting small bits of the pattern off) and if you are raising you do it the other way. In mine the purple lines show the original edges, and the pink is the adjusted lines. 

I then carried out a FBA as described fantastically in Tasia's tutorial for the Pendrell sew-a-long. I added the width I marked on the pattern earlier.

By this point my pattern is impressively Frankensteined.

So I now have a pattern that fits my body, I will have to adjust the neckline, but so far I'm pretty pleased!

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